Exotic Adventures: Welcome to Zanzibar!

I lived in Kenya for more than a year without ever leaving it (except to go home for Christmas). During my first stint in Nairobi, from January 2013 to March 2014, the only time I traveled abroad was for a week-long trip to Barcelona. My first roommate’s parents, fearing our safety during the 2013 elections, sent us off on a whirlwind trip through the Catalan region, with a quick pop over to France and Andorra and a lot of time in Spain itself. At that point I had only been in Kenya for two months, and after that...I just stayed.

I knew I wanted to explore more of Africa, but I think part of the reason that I kept putting it off was the idea that I was living there. I figured I had all the time in the world, even though it was a two-year contract. I think the other part was that while I was getting paid more than enough to live well in Nairobi and take some exciting adventures within Kenya, I didn’t feel comfortable spending the money it would cost to jet off to some other country. Besides, I reasoned with myself, there’s plenty to see in this crazy beautiful country.

Please don’t misunderstand me, I don’t regret this choice at all. I think I took advantage of nearly every opportunity to explore parts of Kenya, and saw more of it than many people who had been here significantly longer than me. But I knew when I came back from Boston, with a raise and even more insatiable wanderlust tucked under my belt, I was going to take time to explore not only Kenya, but also other places on the continent.

And explore I did. During the nearly seven months I was back in Kenya (May-November 2014) I spent time in Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia and Botswana. I don’t regret a second or a dollar/shilling/kwacha spent. My first trip was out to Zanzibar with Steph over a long weekend in May. I think there are few places on earth that whip up people’s imagination like Zanzibar does. The word itself feels exotic....and the country did not disappoint. Beautiful beaches, delicious food, historic winding streets...Zanzibar has it all.

We took advantage of the Madaraka Day long weekend, which gave us a Monday off, and we took off on Friday to maximise the amount of time we could spend there over the weekend. The trip came at a time when I was super stressed at work with my new role in Customer Care, so the fact that we got the chance to relax and unwind was even more meaningful.

We flew out on Friday, taking a quick flight on Precision Air that took us directly from Nairobi to Zanzibar International Airport. Zanzibar is quite close to Kenya, just off the coast of Tanzania, and the flight was less than two hours. Our nearly deserted plane dropped us on a humid tarmac, and we collected our bags and went outside to meet the taxi I had arranged from the resort where we were spending the first two nights. The island isn't very big, only 90km north to south, and about 30km east to west. It took us less than an hour to drive from the airport on the west coast to our resort on the east, and that was at night on pothole filled roads. 

Source

We spent our first two nights at the Uroa Bay Beach Resort, which has a nice East Africa Resident rate, and was not very full because we arrived just on the cusp of the start of the high season for tourists. Overall, it was great. We got a bungalow on the second row (so we could see the water, but were not beach front). The food was good, the staff was friendly, and the pool/grounds/beach were all well kept. The first night we took some time to orient ourselves, and then turned in for a night of really comfortable sleep in our bungalow. Saturday was basically spent ordering fancy drinks to sip as I overlooked the beach, reading, and generally relaxing. It was ideal.

My bed.

This was our very cute little bungalow.

The main reception area.

And the buffet area. Food was good...not phenomenal, but good.

Everything was so lush!

The pools overlooked the ocean.

So tropical.

Siiiiiiigh. So nice.

Seriously, does it get much better than turquoise water and pale sand? This was at very low tide, hence the seaweed.

And when the tide went out you could just switch to the pool!

Walkways through the resort.

Home sweet home.

Look at these twee little bungalows!

View from our back porch (hi Indian Ocean!).

Love those beachy colours.

You can really see the difference the tide makes between this picture and the one above. This was near high tide.

Palm trees as the sun begins to set.
Photo credit: Steph

Beautiful.
Photo credit: Steph

Lovely poolside dinner for two.

Goodnight ocean!

Saturday morning we slept late, and then Steph and I walked out on this seaweed pathway into the ocean at low tide. It was a damn minefield of sea urchins out there (they were EVERYWHERE) and the girls who were there collecting urchins and conchs to sell thought it was hilarious how gingerly we stepped around them. But it was really beautiful, and you could walk a long way before the water got too deep.

Greeting the morning with a fancy drink.



There is a pathway, marked with posts, that go

It is a commonly walked path, so no seaweed grows there, which is kind of crazy looking.

Out exploring with the flatmate.

And sending pics back to everyone to make them jealous. Obviously.



Do I absolutely HAVE to leave?

 

Sunday afternoon we headed over to The Rock, which is a bar and restaurant just off the coast of Zanzibar, which constantly makes lists of restaurants you have to go to before you die. Built on the top of a huge rock, it overlooks the gorgeous water and just provides a perfect viewpoint. The food was good (though expensive) and the drinks were delicious. Certainly worth a visit.

 

 

We were there at low tide, so you could walk out and go up the stairs. However, when the tide is fully in, you have to take a boat to this little rocky outcropping.



It is quite pretty with the blues and greens of the sky, sea, and algae.

See!

Kind of love with the water all the way out. All the little tide pools look amazing.

Pouring over the menu (which was placed in an necessarily large and heavy wooden frame).

You can eat inside, too, but why would you?!

Such contrasts. Love it.

Would be interesting to go back when the tide is in as well.

Probably one of my favourite pictures that I've ever taken.

Beautiful.

Seafood fresh out of the ocean. Lobster, giant shrimp, and calamari.



The sea...



...and our colour coordinated drinks.

I couldn't stop taking pictures of these colours.

The women were out collecting seafood to sell at local markets.

The colours changed from moment to moment as clouds moved around.

GORGEOUS!

Probably one of the most unique places I've ever eaten.

So pleased it was actually open when we were there!



You should definitely go if you get a chance. And sit outside! But maybe don't get sunburned like me...





Our next stop on Sunday was near the center of the island, where we had the option to go on a spice plantation tour. Zanzibar is known for their spices (they have a pretty perfect climate for growing a variety of spices and top quality vanilla beans) so we definitely wanted to take advantage of that. The spice tours are cool...we were led around by a young guy from the local community who pointed out various plants, letting us smell, touch, and taste different raw spices. Steph took copious notes...I did not. I just took the photos, haha. If you have questions about specific spices, Steph is your girl.

 

 

Heading off into the spice farm.

This...is...turmeric? Something super yellow, haha.

These little seeds can be crushed and used as lipstick/lipstain.



Steph on the hunt for new spices.

Roots and notes.

Like the contrast of the leaves and the tiny, precise handwriting.

Man, my memory is bad in the best of situations, but a year later, I have no idea what this is.

But I know that the red stuff is what you want.

They made us a ton of banana leaf "jewelry" haha. Including this lovely frog necklace.

Also, this guy SCALED a palm tree (while singing) to get us some fresh coconuts.

Allllll the way up at the top.

We also had the opportunity to buy some natural products made with ingredients from the spice farm. I bought their natural version of Vicks Vapor Rub and a lemongrass bug repellant.

Steph and I  (with all of our accoutrements) and our guide.

 

After buying excessive amounts of spice powders, whole black pepper corns, coffee, tea, and freshly made vanilla extract, we were on our merry way. We had planned to spend our last night in Stone Town, a quirky, old Swahili town fairly close to the airport. We stayed at Kiswia House, which was beautiful, affordable, and had a killer rooftop breakfast situation. After dropping off our stuff we walked over to the Forodhani Night Food Market (walking at night! such a luxury!). Oh man. That market. It is insane. So much fresh, delicious, CHEAP food. Its absolutely a MUST visit. It is a place you can just stroll around, people watch, and eat to your heart's content. Can't ask for much more.

 

In Zanzibar, these little packed-to-the-gills buses are called daladalas.

A lovely refreshing towel and cold juice welcomed us to Kisiwa House.

Overlooking the night market.

One of the many kebab stands.

So many choices!

This stand had a pretty incredible selection of fresh seafood kebabs.

Well, really any kind of meat you could imagine.

You picked the skewers you wanted and they'd flash cook them on a grill, handing them over steaming hot for you to enjoy.



Zanizibari Pizza is amaaaazing. "The bread lies somewhere between a crêpe and a chapatti, the filling typically includes mince meat, onion, chili, egg, garlic and mayonnaise, and the whole shebang is topped with hot sauce."
Source: Field to Feast

You can get them in a savory variety, or with things like banana and nutella in them. We had three different kinds (savory and sweet) and they were all DELICIOUS.

Once we were totally stuffed we headed back to the hotel to get some sleep before our last day in Zanzibar. Monday morning we had a lovely rooftop breakfast overlooking the Indian Ocean, and then headed out to enjoy the day in Stone Town. Let me just say...Stone Town is a fascinating place. Did I LOVE it? No. But that's mostly because it is made up of the tiniest, windiest, most confusing streets of anywhere I've ever been. Usually when I spend a few hours in a place I am able to mentally map where I am. I never got to that stage with Stone Town....I was perpetually lost and confused. EVEN WHEN LOOKING AT A MAP. Even so, we explored a lot in the town, did some shopping, and made it back to the hotel in time to leave for the airport, so I'd consider that a win.

 

In fact, I think this quote from an article in The Guardian sums it up..."Stone Town is a labyrinth of alleyways, spice markets and unruly traffic, all sufficiently exotic for a chase sequence in a Bond or Bourne movie. There is a mix of Arab, Indian and African influences, notably elaborately carved wooden doors with brass studs, a style that originated as a defence against charging elephants. No one could accuse this place of being soulless." So true.

 

View of the ocean from the rooftop of Kisiwa House.

Taking notes over breakfast.

There were definitely some beautiful little winding roads.

And STUNNING Swahili doors.

So intricately and beautifully carved.

Winding alleyways.

And more doors.

Haaave we been down this road already?

No, I think we DEFINITELY passed that shop before? Didn't we? Yeah, I have no idea where we are.



Adorable little scooters near Freddy Mercury's house.

One of the places we visited on Monday morning was the Old Slave Market, which is located on the grounds of what is now the Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ. The slave market, which remained open until it was shut down by British settlers in 1873, remained open longer than most others in the world. A guide led us down into the basements where the slaves were kept before being brought out to open sale. It was a moving experience, juxtaposed with the laughter of children playing during recess at the adjoining parochial school. The church does much to respect and remember those that suffered on the land they now occupy, and in general the area does have a feeling of peace that is often absent at other places with dark histories.

Heading into the memorial area.

The guides take you down the steep stone steps of the old building to the basement where the slaves awaited sale.

Hard to imagine spending several days or weeks cramped into this dank basement with tens of others, awaiting your uncertain future.

The cathedral now dominates the grounds.

Memorial sculpture.

Inside the cathedral. Though it is a bit run down it is still beautiful.

Love stained glass windows.

The very ornate altar is located just behind where the old whipping post used to stand in the market.

The circle of marble on the ground shows where the post used to stand.



 

Before heading to the airport we grabbed lunch at the rooftop restaurant at Swahili House. We had originally tried to visit Lazuli, but found them under construction. However, we happened to run into the chef who not only suggested we'd enjoy the restaurant at Swahili House, but also walked us over there through the winding streets. So that was pretty sweet. The hike up to the rooftop is NO JOKE. Tons of nearly vertical wooden staircases. But the food at the views at the end are worth it. After lunch we did a little shopping, and then it was time to head to the airport and back to Nairobi.

 

 

Though we were originally disappointed that Lazuli was closed, it ended up being just fine.

Stone Town spilling out behind our table.

Views of the crazy, jumbled up city.

Steep steps.

View up the center of the building.

You can see that it was quite a trek up to the top.

Did you think I was done with doors? FALSE.

Taking a break to do a little shopping.

Ended up buying this incredibly entertaining public health poster painting.

Eventually we emerged from the tiny alleyways....

...said goodbye to the doors, and headed back to Nairobi.





If you're looking to go to Zanzibar, we used the same wonderful, knowledgeable, safe driver the entire weekend. his name is Karim N. Said and his numbers are +255 242 239 348 and +255 776 425 055. Highly recommend him.

But more than anything, I recommend GOING TO ZANZIBAR!