Southern Africa Roadtrip!

In August I had the opportunity to go visit Tyler in Zambia. He oversaw a sanitation project there and was working out of Lusaka for several months, so I jumped on the chance to once again have a "semi-local" guide while exploring a new part of Africa. After having such an amazing time on our roadtrip in Uganda, we decided that I'd take a long weekend and fly into Lusaka.  I would pick up Tyler, and two of his co-workers (Khadija and Dan) and we would jump in a rented car for the roughly seven hour journey south to Livingstone.

I stopped into work briefly on Friday morning and then boarded my plane for Zambia via Malawi ("Ah, so you're taking Lilongwe" quoth my British co-worker Tom, giggling to himself). I landed in Lusaka around 5pm, and soon met up with Tyler, Dan, Khadija, one of their Zambian coworkers, and the giant purple Prado that would be our chariot for the weekend.

I drove the four five or so hours of what turned out to be an eight hour trip thanks to atrocious traffic. Nothing like end-of-week traffic in a car you've never driven, in the dark, in a place you're unfamiliar with to really heighten the stress levels, haha. Once we got out of Lusaka the traffic fell off steeply and soon we were the only ones on the road for long stretches. We talked, played hilarious bootleg mix CDs purchased from street vendors (I don't know who was on the panel that voted for the songs to represent the BEST of American country music but I'd like to have a talk with them), and blasted some 90s music from my iPod into a cup holder to amplify the sound. Along the way we saw huge swaths of land on fire - local farmers were using slash-and-burn to prepare fields for planting. It was insane to see...and also beautiful.

Our first stop was in Mazabuka, where we were dropping their Zambian co-worker at a bar that he co-owns. We stopped at said bar and spent an hour or so nursing cold drinks and talking to some colourful characters from the area, including a man decked out in a sequin covered ladybug baseball hat who got into a heated discussion with the boys before we headed out. Already knowing we would be really late arriving to Livingstone, we decided to hit the road again, this time with a few bags full of ribs from the owners of the bar. 

Tyler and I switched to the backseat to try and get some sleep while Dan took over driving and Khadija co-piloting. I started to dose, with Ty curled up in the backseat against me, but that quickly came to an end when we came very close to hitting a rogue cow who appeared out of the blackness directly in the center of the road. Thankfully Dan's reflexes were quick enough and we narrowly averted disaster, but suffice it to say even though I was tired my brain was wired awake after that one. Thanks to big numbers of tourists heading down to Livingstone, the roads are really nicely taken care of, so that made the drive easy. Khadija completed the end of our journey and we finally arrived at the Nyala Lodge around 3:00am. We made our way into a "family" tent and immediately crashed.

Just a few hours later, around 6:30am, I was back up and heading out for my pick-up for a day-long safari in Botswana. The others had wanted to go whitewater rafting on the Zambezi River, but I...value my life...so I decided the safari by boat and land was a better deal for me. A driver picked me up and took me about a half hour away to the border with Botswana. There's this one point where Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Namibia all meet, and as you take the small speed boat across the river at the Kazangula Crossing, you can see bits of all four countries. 

 

The boats that take you across Kazangula Crossing from Zambia to Botswana.

 

`Beautiful day for a multi-country adventure!

Once across the border, we hopped in some open Land Cruisers and went over to a little cafe that was the launch point for the aquatic half of our day. One of the things that set this safari apart from the many others I've been on was the opportunity to do half a day on the Chobe River by boat, and the rest on land through Chobe National Park.

Chobe National Park is known for having one of the highest concentrations of game in Africa, including more than 50,000 Kalahari elephants. Kalahari elephants are the largest subspecies of African elephant and are unique because they have unusually short tusks, which some scientists think is due to the lack of calcium in the soil. 

The boat we got on for the safari was big, with two viewing decks with lots of chairs and open areas to choose from. The announcers would point out interesting wildlife as we floated down the river. It was pretty sweet.

 

This area of Botswana was quite arid.

 

Our boat for the river safari.

Downstairs deck with safari chairs.

 

Looking ahead at the river.

 

The blues were absolutely stunning.

 

Cruising up behind a smaller boat to spy on some eles.

 

Just a family having some lunch.

 

Water buffaloes and some elephants in the distance.

 

There were lots of little boats but it never felt too crowded.

 

These birds dive under water to get fish, and then stick their heads and necks up out of the water. They look like snakes peeking out of the river. Once they eat, they find some land real estate to dry their wings.

 

There were also a LOT of crocodiles lurking in the grasses.

 

The boats allowed you to get pretty close to the elephants.

 

Many would come down from the hills of the park to eat the grass on the islands between the Botswana side and the Zimbabwe side.

 

It was really interesting to see them twist up the grasses from the roots using their dexterous trunks.

 

And then gnosh on the whole mouth full.

 

The colours in this park were beautiful - the sage green of the grass, the brilliant blues of the sky and water, and the orange of the dusty soil.

 

The river was so calm.

 

Beautiful.

 

Our big goal was to see some of the elephants cross the river - which not everyone gets to experience. 

 

Many animals brave the swim to get to the plentiful and nutritious grasses on the islands.

 

And some just like lounging around in the cool mud.

 

Like these wallowing hippos.

 

These elephants looked like they were going to cross, but really just faked us out.

 

But then a whole family decided to cross!

 

The little one used its trunk to hold on to the bigger ones, and used it as a snorkel at times when the river got really deep.

 

It was really neat to watch.

 

In some areas it got quite deep!

 

This little guy deeply regretted his life choices as soon as his feet touched the water. He pitched a fit like a human two year old.

 

He was trumpeting and splashing around in protest.

 

But eventually fell in line behind his siblings.

 

First of the family making their way out on the other side.

 

And this little joker decided to play for a while, splashing around in the water.

 

Older siblings were less than impressed, haha.

 

I love the water mark that shows exactly how deep it got.

 

One of the older females waiting while the little one finished playing.

 

The smaller you are the more of your body gets covered in water!

 

Snorkel mode.

 

A whole pod of hippos looked on lazily as well.

 

Huge crocodile cooling off with its mouth open (with a DEMONIC Egyptian goose in the background).

 

Slow slide into the river.

 

Disappearing.

 

And slipping off in search of food.

 

We even spotted this tiny little (very well camouflaged) pocket sized crocodile.

 

Once we had finished our morning tour by water it was time to transfer to the Land Cruisers for the rest of the day on land.

 

Driving into the park.

 

The hills in Chobe are very dry (and you can see smoke from slash-and-burn fires off in the distance in Zimbabwe).

 

This dryness is what pushes so many animals to find food down on the islands.

 



Driving through the sandy soil of the national park.

 

Love giraffes, regardless of country.

 

Snacks.

 

It looks like these spots have been through several wash cycles.

 

Sable antelopes are one of the most badass looking animals I've ever seen.

 

And he acted like he was posing.

 

What a beautiful animal.

 

Ladies looking pretty.

 

And a female kudu.

 

Impala walking around on the island.

 

View from the back of the Land Cruiser.

 

The road we came from.

 

Lone elephant on our way out of the park.

 

After making our way back to Livingstone, I met up with the other three at The Royal Livingstone Hotel, right on the banks of Zambezi before it crashes about 350 feet over a cliff to become Victoria Falls. The hotel is incredibly beautiful, and a great place to get sundowners and watch the smoke rise from the falls. They even have some tame zebras that make for very cool pictures. However, it is worth noting that if you want to eat here on a Saturday night, you should make reservations well in advance. We ended up going into town and grabbing dinner at a little pizza place.

 

That smoke is coming off the waterfall.

 

One of the local names for Victoria Falls translates to "The Smoke that Thunders."

 

Sunset over the Zambezi.

 

Sunset and zebras.

 

Last light.

 

Goodnight, Livingstone.

 Sunday morning we woke up early to head over to Victoria Falls National Park. The park has a ton of walking trails and we picked one that skirted around the falls to get the full view. It was breathtaking. Though Victoria Falls isn't the tallest or widest waterfall, it is still classified as the world's biggest because it is the world's largest sheet of falling water. Its pretty spectacular.

Entrance to the Zambian side of the falls.

 

Chasing rainbows with these kids.
Khadija, Dan, Tyler, and I

 

With my love.

 

The pictures absolutely cannot do this justice.

 

Its beyond beautiful.

 

From the top of the falls.

 

Contemplating a wonder of the world.

 

Khadija taking it all in.

 

They basically seem to go on forever.

 

Bridge over the lower Zambezi.

 

Group shot.

 

The walkway along the falls. Slippery steps...my fav.

 

So pretty.

 

Footbridge over the falls.

 

Sigh, so beautiful.

 

It really is expansive.

 

LOVELY.

 

Just a pure curtain of water.

 

The whole thing was just really beautiful.

 

After exploring the park, we walked down the road leading to Zimbabwe.

 

 

Monkeys and babies on the road.

 

The gorge that the Zambezi cuts through after going over the falls.

 

Straddling the line between Zam and Zim.

 

Two places at oooooooonce. Basically Mandi Moore.

 

This bridge is also where crazy people bungee jump over the Zambezi.

 

It made my stomach flip just looking at it.

 

HOW IS THIS FUN?!

 

AGH.

 



Looking back at the falls.



 

The falls feeding into the lower Zambezi.

 

Look at that TIIIIIINY little boat. That's the size of the thing they look out for whitewater rafting the day before. I repeat, HOW SI THIS FUN?!

 

After walking back we stopped for food and Mozis while watching people leap off the bridge.



That afternoon we headed out to an incredible get away on Bovu Island. Jungle Junction has to be one of the most relaxing and peaceful places I've ever been. To get there you can either get a transfer from the border or Livingstone, or you can drive yourself. Since we had a car, we obviously chose the latter...and it was a ridiculous journey. The directions on the website still make me laugh:

 

"Take the tar road west towards Kazungula for 41 km. Turn left at the microwave towers, then immediate right. After 100 meters turn left. Follow the track for 6 km. You'll come down the hill and then the track swings right and carries along under the power lines. After the 8th power line pole, take the left fork. Through this part of the Mopane forest you'll see lots of tracks that are made during the rainy season, they all meet up again and the best is to follow the most used one. After 3.5 Km you'll drive through Bovu Village, go slowly because of small children often run out to greet you. Through the village and after another 100 meters there will be a track off to your right. That will take you to opposite the island. Park under the shady Mahogany tree and the paddlers will come over to help you with your luggage."

 

Naturally. Its been a long time since I saw directions that included things like "after the 8th power line pole, take the left fork" and "follow the most used one." There were some touch and go moments, but we eventually made it. However upon arriving there were multiple "shady mahogany trees" so that was a little confusing, haha. Regardless, we were met by the dugout canoes and spirited across the water to our home for that night.

 

The island has no power except for generators, and it is just a quiet escape from the world. I'd love to go back there and spend more time. As the sun set, the stars came out - truly one of the most spectacular things I've seen in a long time. The only other time I saw that many stars was on Semester at Sea when they turned off the ship's lights in the middle of the Atlantic. No light pollution or distraction, just good food, a fire, drinks, and fascinating people from all over the world to talk to. It was really great.

 

The correct shady mahogany did have some rusted out farming equipment hanging from it...which further supported our suspicious that we were PROBABLY in the early scenes of a horror movie.

 

Love this. Boats are the only way to get across to the island.

 

Perfection.

 

Relaxing on the porch of our cabin.

 

View from the nest of pillows where I hung out with my Kindle and a bottle of wine.

 

Hammocks, sand, water, reading material, and cold drinks. Who can ask for much more?

 

Boating back towards the car in the morning.

 

The drive out to the main road. I was certainly thankful for 4-wheel drive! And the fact that Tyler was willing to drive on sand...our deal is usually that I will gladly drive on roads but he has to take over when we get to less reliable surfaces.

On Monday Tyler drove most of the seven hours back to Lusaka. I took over towards the end and was worried about making it on time for my plane...which resulted in me getting a speeding ticket. Again, deserved. Again, in an African country. Sigh. Anyway, we paid the ticket (it was really cheap) so I could get back on the road. I gave out some hugs, grabbed my bags and ran into the airport...only to find that I was delayed for SEVEN HOURS. Obnoxious. However, I eventually made it back to Nairobi and back to work. Another fantastic weekend.